West Cornwall Pasty plans to open 50 new shops in Britain and its new management has not ruled out its previous owners' dream of selling as far away as New York or Hong Kong.
"The Cornish pasty has all the right qualities to be a huge success around the globe," chief executive Richard Nieto told Reuters.
Part of the new brands' appeal lies in local ingredients and fillings that reflect modern Britain, with recipes stuffed with curries, coconut milk and spicy jerk chicken.
Others use online marketing: Pieminister's Web site mixes animated graphics with a link to its MySpace page, and a parody of the corporate promise: "You must promise to love your pie, enjoy him, cherish him and above all cook him properly."
They also tap into tradition, especially at West Cornwall Pasty.
"It was basically food made for miners -- the pastry was folded over to make a hard crust so the whole package would survive a trip down into the tin mines," Nieto said.
"Our best-sellers are traditional recipes like steak and Stilton cheese, but we also do vegetarian, chicken balti, and even a turkey and cranberry sauce recipe for Christmas."
At a regional level, recognition that a part of British heritage lies within a baked crust is growing as some districts seek 'protected' status for their pies.
In Melton Mowbray in central England, pork pie producers have applied to the European Union for the Melton Mowbray pork pie denomination to be given the same regional exclusivity as champagne.
"There is no reason why Melton Mowbray pork pies shouldn't have the same protection as champagne or Parma ham," said Stephen Hallam, managing director of Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe in Melton.
"We sent our application in three years ago, and should have a final reply within a year. The Cornish pasty is also in line at Brussels."
WHO ATE ALL THE PIES?
Celebrity chef Rose Prince, who has written books on new British cuisine and is a critic of poor, rushed eating habits that have led to rising obesity in Britain, said a search for more acceptable fast food could be driving the trend.
"I think that pie businesses have blossomed in the wake of the backlash against McDonalds and KFC," she said.
"They are seen as a more wholesome food, more homemade or hand made -- even though many are not."
Soccer fans have long known the pie habit takes a toll on waistlines: "Who ate all the pies?" is a favourite stadium chant. Prince said that, despite the emphasis on better ingredients, calorie-packed pastries do not promote a healthy modern life.
"They do not make an ideal daily meal for a commuter who rides the bus or train rather than walks or cycles to work," she said. "Pasties were Cornish miners' food, eaten by people who probably burned well over 5,000 calories a day."
