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Tracing angels' footsteps in ancient Ethiopia

As a stranger draws near, priest Mesganaw Tarkgn whips on an embroidered cape and raises an ancient cross in a picture-perfect pose. He is used to the demands of visitors to one of Ethiopia's holiest sites.

Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2007, 12:03 (BST)
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In a darkened chamber, musicians bang drums made of goat hide to the mournful singing of priests, shaking silver sistrum rattles to a slow and deliberate beat.

Last year, French archaeologists also uncovered what they say are three medieval towns at the heart of the Shoa kingdom, which straddled key trading routes between the Christian highlands and Muslim Red Sea ports between the 10th and 16th centuries.

But some worry about the impact of mass tourism on these historic sites, which have been largely untouched for centuries.

"Too many tourists can be a danger to the monuments, and also to the perception of the place. If there are too many tourists, others may not come," said Valentina Resente, an architect working on a European Commission-funded project to cover five churches in Lalibela with temporary shelters.

Deepening cracks running the length of some church ceilings are also of concern to UNESCO, which is in talks with the government, religious authorities and locals on how to begin the painstaking process of restoration.


PRIDE

Until now, the state has largely left repairs to be carried out by the faithful as best they can.

"Since the churches are still very much alive for the locals, it's understandable that they will make repairs as they know how -- using cement for example," Resente said.

"So you'll see restoration using technology that's not appropriate for this most magnificent archaeology."

UNESCO's Ethiopia Director Nureldin Satti told Reuters there was no need for panic.

"Lalibela is not yet characterised as a site in danger. Nevertheless we are considering urgent action on churches under threat," he said: "The situation is quite serious."

Preserving its ancient monuments is just one of the problems the government must tackle if Ethiopia is to compete against the likes of Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa for tourists.

It desperately needs more hotels, better transport links, even banks in far flung towns for visitors to change their dollars, euros and pounds into birr.

At Lalibela's small airport, a dog-eared ledger on which is scribbled an invitation for "Visitors' Suggestions" offers an insight into the frustrations of some.

The most common criticism is about the flight schedule -- or rather, the lack of one due to delays, non-arrivals, cancellations and technical woes.

Others complain about widespread begging by children, "flea-infested" carpets in unnamed hotels, poor menus and being charged a room rate different from the one advertised.

Almost all, however, agreed on one thing: the view.

"My visit to Lalibela has reaffirmed the pride for my country. No matter where I go, no matter what I see I will never forget the beauty of this holy land," one Ethiopian wrote last month.



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